Goldwork Embroidery: Interviews with Practitioners on Working with Metal Threads and Opportunities for E-textile Hybrid Crafts

DOI

Within the emerging field of e-textiles, goldwork embroidery (also known as metalwork) which uses metal threads and materials is an underexplored area, despite being a centuries-old practice in traditional crafts of different cultures. In this paper, we explore the material culture of textile goldwork to better understand how e-textile researchers can leverage their material properties, palette, and practices. First, we provide a historical background of English and European goldwork to give HCI researchers context on this craft field including technological and cultural influences. Then, we interview 13 contemporary goldwork practitioners on their creative practice to better understand the tools, techniques, and skills they employ. Our study findings show how goldwork practitioners deal with the unique constraints of metal threads and materials, and how these materials need to be handled differently than regular non-metal threads and fibers. Finally, we contribute guidelines and opportunities in the form of four concrete design recommendations for the field. Overall, this paper addresses a research gap on the potentials of goldwork and how we can leverage these practices for the future of e-textile hybrid crafts.